Mush! What It’s Really Like to Drive Your Own Dog Sled Team

Meeting the team

The first thing that surprises most first-timers is the noise. As the guides begin harnessing the team, the dogs erupt into a chorus of barking and leaping, straining at their lines, not from anxiety but from sheer, uncontainable excitement to run. These are working huskies, bred and trained for endurance and pulling, and running is what they live for. Once the team is hooked up and the snow hook is pulled, the barking stops instantly and the only sound is the hiss of the runners and the patter of paws on snow. The silence, after all that anticipation, is startling.

It's genuinely hard to describe how much these dogs love running until you've seen it up close. They're athletes, and it shows in how they treat the job. Smaller local races sometimes look for volunteer dog handlers at the start line, people to help hold and settle teams before the gun goes, and anyone who's done it will tell you the same thing: the dogs jump and bounce in their harnesses, absolutely desperate to go, right up until the second they're finally allowed to run.

Your first ride

A typical introductory tour starts with a short lesson. You will learn how to stand on the runners, how to work the brake and the drag mat to control speed, how to shift your weight through corners, and how to call "gee" and "haw" for right and left. Then you are off, either driving your own small team under close supervision or riding in the sled basket, wrapped in blankets, while a guide drives. Both are wonderful; driving is more of a workout and more of a thrill, while riding lets you watch the country and the dogs without dividing your attention.

The trail winds through spruce forest and across frozen lakes and rivers, the dogs settling into a steady, businesslike trot. You quickly stop thinking about the mechanics and start noticing the details: the frost on the dogs' muzzles, the squeak of cold snow, the long low winter light turning everything gold and blue. It is, for many visitors, the single most memorable few hours of their trip.

Where to go

Whitehorse offers the easiest starting point, with a handful of real operators, Muktuk Adventures and Sky High Wilderness Ranch among them, running trips a short drive from town.

One operation, though, is worth seeking out specifically. Tagish Lake Kennel, just outside Carcross, is owned by Michelle Phillips and Ed Hopkins, genuine elite mushers who turn their caps to guiding tours because they love sharing their passion for the sport and the dogs. Phillips is a born-and-raised Yukoner who has won the Yukon Quest 450 twice in a row, in 2024 and 2025, and both she and Hopkins have raced the Yukon Quest and Iditarod for decades between them. In winter, they run dog sledding tours from their kennel in Tagish. Come summer, when snow-running isn't possible, they shift to Tutshi Sled Dog Tours near Log Cabin on the South Klondike Highway, where the same dogs pull a cart along an alpine trail instead. It's a genuine chance to spend time with a working championship kennel and hear what elite mushing is actually like, straight from people who live it.

Beyond that, Carcross and Dawson City both have their own established operators too, so it's worth asking what's available locally wherever your trip is based rather than assuming Whitehorse is the only option. Whatever operator you choose, ask what a tour actually involves, team size, trail length, how much driving versus riding, before booking.

Half a day or a whole adventure

Tours range from a couple of hours to full multi-day expeditions where you camp out, help care for the dogs, and travel real distances across the winter landscape. Short introductory rides are widely available near Whitehorse and require no experience. Longer trips ask more of you, you will help feed and harness the dogs, break trail, and pitch camp in the cold, but they reward you with a far deeper understanding of what mushing actually is and a bond with the team that a quick spin cannot match.

Dressing for the cold

This cannot be overstated: dress seriously. You are outdoors, often standing still on the runners, in temperatures that can drop well below freezing. Wear insulated, windproof outer layers, a warm hat, a neck gaiter or balaclava, insulated boots rated for real cold, and mitts rather than gloves, with liners underneath. Many operators can loan or rent heavy parkas and boots, so ask when you book. Chemical hand and toe warmers are cheap insurance. If your hands and feet stay warm, the cold becomes a backdrop rather than a distraction.

The dogs come first

Reputable Yukon kennels are proud of their animals, and it shows. The dogs are athletes, cared for meticulously, and clearly adore their work. A good tour makes time for you to meet the team, ask questions, and understand how the dogs are trained, fed, and rested. If you have any doubt about an operator's standards, ask about veterinary care, retirement, and how the dogs live between runs; the answers will tell you what you need to know. Choosing an operator who genuinely centres the dogs' welfare is the most important decision you will make.

More than a ride

Because the best mushing season overlaps with the best aurora season, many operators build a bigger night around it, pairing an afternoon on the runners with a hot meal in a wall tent, storytelling by the stove, and a chance to step outside and watch the northern lights come out. Snowshoeing, fat-biking, and ice fishing are often offered alongside. Whether you come for a single unforgettable ride or a multi-day journey behind the dogs, mushing gives you the Yukon winter the way Yukoners themselves have always known it: cold, quiet, exhilarating, and utterly alive.